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When a dish really hits a nerve with the American palate, it can really take off across the entire country, facilitated by food vendors' freedom to copy good ideas. We saw it happen with General Tso's chicken. We're seeing it happen with other Asian-influenced culinary creations too.
When I was researching my book on Chinese food in America, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, which was the basis of my TED Talk, it puzzled me why Korean cuisine (unlike many of its Asian brethren) had not gone mainstream yet.
Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Indian and Vietnamese restaurants had all hit critical mass, with footholds in suburban towns. But Korean cuisine remained mostly ensconced within Korean-American communities, with an occasional lone outpost defiantly offering bibimbap. This puzzled me, because Korean savory barbecued meats -- short ribs, grilled marinated beef -- should be widely appealing to an American palate which never met a barbecue recipe it didn't like. But Korean restaurants basically remained serving Korean clientele, with the occasional Chinese family, like mine, that celebrated our Thanksgivings there.
Korean BBQ. Photo credit: ZakTVA on Flickr.
I came up with various hypotheses to explain the roadblock: the names of Korean dishes were too strange and not descriptive enough (bulgogi and kalbi versus the very clear "beef and broccoli"). Kim chee had given Korean cuisine a pungent image in American minds. Korean immigrants had been siphoned into groceries and other retail industries. The Koreans who did open restaurants found it easier to sell Japanese or Chinese cuisine.
Pho, pad thai, ramen had all lapped jap chae in a race to the American plate.
But then boom! Kogi Korean BBQ-To-Go in Los Angeles burst into national consciousness in 2009 and developed a cult following with tens of thousands of Twitter followers. The formula was so simple, it was a wonder that it hadn't been done before: put the yummy Korean meats in Mexican tortillas, and you are ready to roll. Burritos, tacos, quesadillas. It was aided by a charismatic Twitter account and the low overhead of a food truck, and a movement was born.
Kogi Truck Taco. Photo credit: karmacamilleeon on Flickr.
It's a concept that is truly the product of Los Angeles stir-fry (not melting pot!) in one bite: Korean and Mexican -- two immigrant populations which have made Southern California an extension of their native homes. And it was the second generation that dared to make it happen.
Like General Tso's chicken, the concept spread because of distributed open-source copying through a network of food vendors. It's been echoed by dozens upon dozens of food trucks nationwide, from Korilla BBQ in New York, to Chilantro in Austin, Marination Mobile in Seattle. "Korean taco" now has its own Wikipedia page.
This blending of Asian and other regional cuisines has been become entertaining to watch over the last half decade. Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches (themselves already a product of French colonial presence in South East Asia), have developed sloppy joe and catfish versions (at Baoguette in New York), as well as a Vietnamese-Polish edition made with kielbasa. And you can chimp on banh mi sliders and banh mi tacos at The Peached Tortilla in Austin.
Sushirrito. Photo credit: Jennifer 8. Lee on Flickr.
Now I'm waiting for another Asian-Latino concept to take the country by storm: sushirittos, burrito-sized sushi rolls. There is the namesake establishment in downtown San Francisco, as well as Jogasaki's sushi burritos in Los Angeles, and Wrapmi in Boston.
My Japanese friends were slightly terrified when they encountered them. It was like encountering a genetic mutation from outer space. Supersizing maki rolls is just so, so American, they said.
It's true. It is so American. That's what makes it wonderful. Watch for the yummy seaweed logs, they are coming to you.
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當(dāng)一種美食讓美國人大感美味時(shí)，它會(huì)迅速風(fēng)靡全國，因?yàn)椴宛^老板們很容易就會(huì)效仿好點(diǎn)子。左宗雞就是個(gè)例子，如今其它亞洲風(fēng)格的美食創(chuàng)新也正在走同樣的路線。
當(dāng)年我在為寫一本美式中餐題材的書——就是《幸運(yùn)簽餅紀(jì)事》，它也是我TED演講的基礎(chǔ)——做準(zhǔn)備，發(fā)現(xiàn)韓國菜居然沒像其它許多亞洲菜一樣成為主流，這讓我困惑不已。
中、日、泰、印還有越南菜都已有了名氣，店鋪也開到了郊區(qū)小鎮(zhèn)上。但是韓國菜卻基本都藏在韓裔社區(qū)里，偶爾有那么一家跑出來賣石鍋飯的。真是奇怪，因?yàn)槊牢兜捻n式烤肉——牛小排，烤腌牛肉——應(yīng)該大受美國人的歡迎才對，還沒有哪種燒烤美國人不喜歡的。但韓國餐館一直如此，客人基本都是韓國裔，偶爾來一家像我們家這樣的華裔，跑來過感恩節(jié)呢。
韓式燒烤. Photo credit:ZakTVA on Flickr.
我想到各種假設(shè)來解釋這個(gè)怪現(xiàn)象：韓式菜名太奇怪了，看不出來是什么（煲鍋吉和烤畢遠(yuǎn)不如“牛肉和西蘭花”簡單明了）。泡菜給美國人留下韓國菜辛辣的印象。韓國移民都去開雜貨店和做其它零售業(yè)了，開餐廳的韓國人發(fā)現(xiàn)日本菜和中國菜更好賣。
越南米粉、泰式河粉和日本拉面，都與韓國冬粉爭奪著美國人的餐盤。
但是突然間，2009年洛杉磯的科吉韓式便捷燒烤突然就火了起來，引起了全國性的狂熱追捧，在Twitter上受到上萬粉絲的關(guān)注。配方簡單得出奇，居然之前就是沒人試過：把美味的韓式肉食放進(jìn)墨西哥玉米圓餅里，然后你就盡管試吧，玉米卷餅，炸玉米餅，油炸玉米粉餅。再加上個(gè)魅力萬千的Twitter賬號，還有低成本的快餐車，想不火都難��！
科吉餐車的炸玉米餅. Photo credit:karmacamilleeon on Flickr.
這還真是一口嘗到炒（不是民族大熔爐的熔）在一起的兩種洛城風(fēng)味：韓國和墨西哥――兩個(gè)都將南加州當(dāng)成自己的第二故鄉(xiāng)的移民群體。也只有第二代移民敢于這么嘗試。
就像左宗棠雞當(dāng)年一樣，這個(gè)點(diǎn)子由于餐館老板資源共享的網(wǎng)絡(luò)得以傳播。一波一波的快餐車在全國范圍響應(yīng)，從紐約的Korilla BBQ到奧斯汀的Chilantro，再到西雅圖的Marination Mobile�！绊n式玉米餅”現(xiàn)在維基都有自己的頁面了。
最近五年來，這種亞洲美食和其它地區(qū)的美食融合越來越有意思了。越南三明治（本身就是東南亞的法國殖民地產(chǎn)物）已經(jīng)有了 “邋遢喬”（ 碎牛腩）和鯰魚版本（紐約的Baoguette店），還有放波蘭熏腸的越南波蘭版本。在奧斯汀的The Peached Tortilla還能嘗到banh mi slider（譯者注：一種外形似漢堡的越式食品）和越式玉米餅。
壽司玉米卷. Photo credit:Jennifer 8. Lee on Flickr.
現(xiàn)在我正等著另一種亞洲-拉丁風(fēng)格席卷全國：壽司玉米卷，像墨西哥玉米卷那么大的壽司卷。在舊金山城區(qū)已經(jīng)有店了，名字一樣，還有洛杉磯的Jogasaki壽司玉米卷餅，和波士頓的Wrapmi。
我的日本朋友在頭一次遇到的時(shí)候略感吃驚，就像見到外太空來的基因突變怪物一樣。他們說，超大號的壽司卷實(shí)在是太，太美國了。
沒錯(cuò)，真是太美國了，這也正是其魅力所在。小心美味的紫菜壽司卷正沖你來啦
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